Whether you want to buy your suit in a shop or online, finding the right fit is key when it comes to choosing a suit size. Depending on your personal style and body type, you decide whether a slim fit or a classic, more relaxed fit suits you best. Cuts for men’s suits usually fall into one of these categories:
Slim fit
A sleek, modern style with a narrow and tapered cut. Slim fit and extra slim fit suits have a lean line and are perfect for the fashion-forward men who prefer a close-fitted look.
Regular fit
If you have a typical to athletic build and prefer a less close-fitting style, the regular fit is a solid all-rounder. With a slight taper at the waist, it’s a timeless classic that is as stylish as it is comfortable.
Relaxed or comfort fit
A modern suit in a relaxed or comfort fit offers versatility and ease. This cut gives you more space to move with a longer jacket that is broader across the shoulders and less fitted at the waist. The trousers have a looser fit for comfort.
No matter which fit of suit you choose, ensuring it is the perfect fit for you – not too baggy, and not too tight – makes all the difference when it comes to flattering your body type. The chest and shoulders, as well as the sleeve, jacket, and trouser length, all play a crucial role in this.
THE JACKET
To find the right suit jacket size, you need to know how a suit jacket should fit. A perfectly fitting suit jacket sits just right on your frame. It’s easy to button and the shoulder seam ends flush with the upper arm. Check the following the criteria to ensure your jacket fits as it should:
Chest area
With a properly fitting jacket, the lapels lie flat on your chest and don’t flare out. The jacket can be unbuttoned easily with one hand. If it’s too tight, the lapels will pull open at the sides. If it’s too loose, there will be too much room in the front.
Tip: With the jacket buttoned, slide two fingers between the jacket and your shirt above the suit buttons. If you can do so comfortably, then the jacket sits perfectly.
Shoulder area
The ideal shoulder width for a suit jacket depends on your build, but the shoulder seam should always align with your upper arm. If the fit is too narrow, the upper part of the jacket will wrinkle, especially around the shoulders. Conversely, if the shoulder line is too broad, there’ll be a gap at the collar and lapels, disrupting the suit’s natural line.
Tip: Stand sideways next to a wall. If the shoulder touches the wall but the rest of the sleeve doesn’t, the suit is too big.
Sleeve length
The sleeves of your suit jacket should be just long enough to reveal about a centimetre of your shirt cuff. If your jacket sleeves are too short, there will be too much space between the end of the sleeve and your wrist. If they cover your shirt and cuff links completely, however, they’re too long.
Jacket length
The length of the jacket is ultimately a matter of personal taste, but shorter jackets should cover at least your bottom.
Tip: With your hands by your sides, try to reach under the hem of the jacket with your fingers. If you can’t reach the seam, the jacket is too long. And if the bottom of the jacket ends at your wrist, it is too short.
THE TROUSERS
The fit of your trousers is just as important in finding the right suit size. It depends on the cut, your build, and the shape of the suit you choose. Finding the right suit trousers size will mean they are not too tight, nor will they slide down. The waistband should sit just below your navel, but not at your waistline. The right trouser length depends on the look you’re going for:
Longer trousers
With a classic slim fit suit, the length of the trousers should be just long enough for the hem to rest at the topline of your shoe, with a slight break, or fold of fabric at the leg. For trousers tailored for a more relaxed fit, the leg should reach the heel of your shoe, covering your socks. Suit trousers shouldn’t be any longer than that.
Shorter trousers
Unlike a traditional suit, where the length of the trouser leg should end at your shoes, a shorter length is preferred for modern, slimmer cut suit styles. For a contemporary look, try ankle-length trousers that reveal a pair of bold printed socks or – for less festive occasions or warmer temperatures – go with hidden sock liners and low-key trainers.
Tip: Sit on a chair and check how far your trousers rise up your leg. They are the right length if they don’t rise up past where your calf begins. Checking for any pulling or tightness when you sit is another quick way to ensure you’ve chosen the right size.
